Ray Le shows a way to create marvelous dresses with the help of Substance.
So, what is the process here? First, he created a tileable color texture from a photo. Then he created a fill layer and apply the color map to Color, Rough, and Height in Substance Painter. He selected the fill layer, added two adjustment layers “Levels” for Roughness and Height, and played around with them to separate the embroidery from the red fabric. After that, he just created another fill layer, unchecked everything except Height, and filled it with a displacement map from MicroFabrics. You can find more details here.
Here are the final results: